Tuesday, November 15, 2011

mi drop at the market

this is the picture that goes with the post of the same title - taken after I fell in that horrible puddle and was cleaned up and new clothes purchased for me by kind Jamaicans

Monday, November 14, 2011

Praise God for Earplugs

In Jamaica there is a lot of noise everywhere, day or night.  There are people on the streets before 6am yelling at each other, laughing, talking, singing and then there are the frequent dog fights, roosters crowing, babies crying, radios blaring, horns honking, etc.  I have learned to wear my earplugs every night.  Most recently, my earplugs served a "holy" purpose as they allowed me to survive a church service.  Part of my attempts to become culturally aware and integrated into my community have been to accept the invitations that I receive to attend various churches.  In Jamaica, that means that you will attend some pentecostal services that may last 4 hours and will be unbelievably loud and dare I say, unusual, by my Methodist church background. I attended such a service yesterday.  It was the second time at this particular church and I only agreed to go because of the kindnesses extended to me by Gloria, who loves to cook for me on Sundays and she is a great cook.  I had decided after my first foray to this church a few months ago that the experience was slightly less painful than a root canal. So I "girded up my loins" and prepared for another torturous 3 or more hours but this time I had a little secret, I would wear my earplugs and at the very least protect my hearing which they say is the first thing to go as we age.  There I sat and the show began.  The congregation is admonished to prepare to worship, this being accomplished by repeating, " hallelujahs, amens, praise Him, glory, glory, He is worthy", etc. accompanied by shouting, writhing, jumping, screaming as though one is being tortured, flailing of limbs, strange noises, body jerking and seemingly various forms of what appear to the outsider, psychotic induced episodes!  Then when the congregation has adequately prepared to worship, the pastor's wife delivers the sermon.  Her topic is freedom in Christ.  Now I must tell you that this theme is not a new one to me as a Christian, but her way of demonstrating her point certainly was.  Before her unique demonstration,  I had been thinking that in my church back home,  Boston Ave Methodist, in Tulsa, Oklahoma, that anyone who exhibited any of the aforementioned behaviors during a service would be subdued, led from the sanctuary and 911 would be called to summon an ambulance to take the poor soul for observation and a psychiatric evaluation at a local hospital.  But all of these behaviors would pale in comparison to what the preacher's wife had in store for us.  Suddenly she appeared with a butcher knife and a chicken with its legs bound with twine.  I was horrfied thinking that she might cut its head off right there before God and everybody!  She being the consummate performer, relished her task as the congregation was spellbound---she had them and walked up and down the aisle waving the knife in the air whilst the poor chicken looked terrified, describing the many ways humans are in bondage and need to repent and be free.
With this, she cut the twine and the maimed chicken ran out of the church! My deliverance came when the service was over and I too, like the hapless bird, was set free!  So you can see why I praise God for the earpugs.





















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Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Swearing in speech

I had promised to provide the speech that I delivered at the swearing in ceremony at the American Embassy September 2, 2011.

"When Peace Corps group 82 stepped off the plane in Kingston on June 29,2011,we embarked on a journey into the unknown leaving all that was familiar to embrace the life of a Peace Corps trainee living in Jamaica.

The past two months have been full of challenges, frustrations, training, tears, fears, laughter, training, new friendships, Devon House ice-cream, and, of course, more training.
At last, we are ready to do "the toughest job we will ever love." The Youth As Promise sector extends a "big up" to all the PC staff and volunteers that have worked so hard to prepare us for successful service. We have truly felt your love and commitment to our learning process, to our health and safety, to our cultural integration, to finding our host families and just the right work and home sites for the next two years.

We gratefully acknowledge the many hours and sometimes "hair pulling" moments you have spent trying to coordinate the myriad number of details that encompass this process;again, thank you. The YAP group are ready and willing to answer the call "how far will you go?" I love inspiring quotes and from Nelson Mandela these words, "A good head and a good heart are always a formidable combination". I believe that each member of Youth As Promise has this winning combination, a good head and a good heart, and with these, we will succeed.

Mother Theresa's great words of guidance follow:

"People are often unreasonable and self-centered......forgive them anyway.
If you are kind, people may accuse you of ulterior motives.....be kind anyway.
If you are honest, people may cheat you.....Be honest anyway.
If you find happiness......people may be jealous.......be happy anyway.
The good you do today may be forgotten tomorrow......do good anyway.
Give the world the best you have and it may never be enough......give your best anyway. For you see, in the end, it is between you and God. It was never between you and them anyway."

In closing, I would like to sing a song that my host mother in Hellshire taught me that perhaps expresses some of our feelings:
I no Bon yah, but mi a live yah
Mi nah lef yah
Fi go America
No way sah
Pot a boil ya
Belly full ya
Sweet Jamaica

Thank you

Sunday, October 2, 2011

cont' funerals and toilet paper

the last entry stopped abruptly so, I will complete:  the journey back to Falmouth, then another taxi carrying additional bags of groceries.  This is such an arduous experience that one avoids shopping as much as possible and sometimes just opts to do without! 
Mornings here are my favorite time - sun filtering through the coconut and banana leaves, chickens and their baby chicks digging in the leaves and grass for breakfast, roosters crowing, men and women and children already walking on the road before 6:00am going to school or work, the almost lyrical sounds greetings in Patois being spoken, "Wa gwaan?"  what's happening and the replies, "mi cris mon, or "everting irie" both replies meaning I am well, I am good mon.

Just this past week, I experienced a cultural phenomena - I heard sounds that at first I thought were a babying crying  but when I looked out my back door, a goat was hanging from a tree, hind legs tied to a limb.  A man with a machete soon ended its misery by slitting it's throat!  I stood transfixed as I was watching an ancient ritual.  The goat was being slaughtered for my landlord's birthday celebration the following day. Jamaicans love curried goat.  The head is cut off and cleaned up to make Mannish Water, a favored soup that is supposed to increase virility and stamina in a man.  I must stop now  but will tell more about the party later.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

funerals and sh0pping

I have been here l0ng en0ugh n0w t experience s0me cultural phen0mena, such as a funeral pr0cessi0n. I heard the strains 0f a marching band and assumed there was a parade, perhaps with a high sch00l band t0 celebrate the beginning 0f the sch00l year in early September.  As the s0unds drew nearer, m0re pe0ple filled the street in fr0nt 0f my h0use.  I s00n learned that this was a funeral pr0cessi0n f0r a y0ung man that was sh0t by a jeal0us husband a few weeks ag0.  If the family pays extra, a marching band will play f0r the funeral.  S00n the band, in full unif0rm marched right d0wn my street playing cum ba ya .  Behind them, a hearse bearing the casket and then a bus f0r the high sch00l band.  All al0ng the way, pe0ple 0f vari0us ages, stages 0f dress and undress including w0men wailing, screaming and m0aning acc0mpanied the pr0cessi0n.  I saw everything fr0m black mesh st0ckings with a skirt barely c0vering a y0ung lady's b0tt0m, sh0rts and skimpy t0ps, n0 bras, flipfl0ps, 0r baref00t.  There were men and w0men in suits, nice dresses, 0lder ladies with umbrellas t0 shade them fr0m the sun, y0ung guys with pants hanging way d0wn revealing their underwear, s0me girls in c0cktail dresses and high heels.  The band launched int0 s0me lively tunes and all 0f this right in fr0nt 0f my h0use!!  They passed me and headed t0 a church d0wn the r0ad f0r a 2 1/2 h0ur service and then pr0cessed back d0wn my street in what can 0nly be described as a carnival atm0sphere.

I have experienced the misery 0f sh0pping when 0ne must d0 s0 using public transp0rtati0n and travel 0ver an h0ur 0ne way t0 reach a st0re that carries basic h0useh0ld items.  When I arrived, my apartment was c0mpletely unfurnished except f0r a bed and a table and 2 f0lding metal chairs.  My supervis0r, her daughter and 0ne 0f their friends went with me t0 help carry my purchases.  We t00k a taxi t0 Falm0uth, 25 minutes away fr0m my h0me.  We then b0arded a van f0r the 30 minute ride t0 M0nteg0 Bay.  Keep in mind they put 20 pe0ple in a 14 passenger van.  It is cr0wded, h0t, and invariably l0ud ann0ying music is blaring 0ver the radi0.  We arrive in M0-Bay and walk appr0ximately 9 bl0cks t0 the st0re which has reas0nably priced h0useh0ld things.  Walking in the streets is a challenge with p0th0les, cracks in the sidewalk, human and animal wastes at times, and vehicles which w0uld seemingly cheerfully run y0u d0wn as they careen crazily ar0und c0rners and d0wn the streets. Walking is risky business here and pedestrians are struck by vehicles regularly.   0nce purchases are made, the f0ur 0f us walk carrying the bags in the h0t sun f0r ab0ut 6 bl0cks t0 find a restuarant t0 revive 0urselves  and prepare f0r the j

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

New Home

WOW!!! It has been a long time since I posted to this blog - that is because until now, I have not had internet on any regular basis.  I need to describe my new home which is in the parish of Trelawny near the north coast and just a 15 or 20 minute taxi ride to Falmouth and about another 30 minutes to Montego Bay, or as Jamaicans say, "Mo-Bay".  I found out on Monday that I would be working with the Trelawny Parish AIDS Association.  My supervisor is Carla and she and I are kindred spirits.  We hit it off immediately my home is right across the street from hers which is great.  We are in cane field country and it is very rustic, rural and suits me thus far.  I live in a flat attached to a home with a family.  There is a 28 year old man and his baby mama who is 35.  They have an adorable daughter, age 3 and there is a 15 year old son from the womans' previous baby father.  The man, Kemar is a barber and Moy stays home with Kemoy, the 3 year old.  "Doc", the 15 year old goes to highschool in Falmouth. They are all really nice and are interested in helping me feel welcome to the community.  In addition, I asked Kemar if he could cut my hair and he said "sure mon, no problem"  My apartment is about 500 sq. ft. with a room to have my twin size bed, a desk, chair, bookcase and wardrobe of some sort.  It was not furnished when I arrived, so we are having to figure all this out.  It will probably take a few weeks before it is fully furnished.  Kitchen cute but no frig or stove as yet, just a sink and cabinet.  I do have a nice bathroom with a tub and shower (no hot water) and a flushing toilet, Yeah!!!! I am awakened by roosters crowing and there is a piggy in my back yard.  The most challenging thing thus far is the fact that when they burn the cane fields which I pray is infrequently, the rats run out and into the houses.  I nearly fainted when that scenario was described as that is my biggest concern about living in Jamaica.  I plan to address this little horror show by having a small herd of very skinny, hungry cats!!!!

My job with the AIDS Association sounds really interesting.  We travel to schools all over the area to present HIV/AIDS prevention and awareness.  We counsel individuals and families  who have a member who is HIV positive and try to find resources to help them.  We also talk to young people about making attitude and behavior changes that will keep them from unwanted pregnancy, sexually transmitted diseases, HIV/AIDs, etc.  We also HAVE to go clubbing a couple of nights every month to talk to sex workers and provide condoms and information about safe sex.  It's a rough job, but somebody has to do it!  We will travel as far as Negril to carry out this mission.  I think I will really like this work and it will be full of lots of variety and challenges which I love.

There are many challenges to the youth of Jamaica. The top 5 are:  1) unemployment 2) crime and violence
3) lack of skills and qualifications 4) lack of programs aimed at at risk youth 5) high risk of contracting HIV/AIDS.

86% of children are born out of wedlock without a father present to transmit values, etc.  Boys drop out of school to try to support the family.  Many girls at very young ages, 12,13, 14 are having unprotected sex with men who may provide some material benefit, e.g., money for taxi fare, school books and/or uniforms, food and other material support for the girls and her family.  The mother may encourage this behavior because of the extreme poverty and the many unmet needs of a family.  Schools are directed more towards the way girls learn and therefore, the learning environment is boring for boys.  There seems to be a "lost generation" of males who just get up, hang out on the corner and that is all.  The unemployment rate in Jamaica is about 45 or 50%.
It is such a paradox as it is like a garden of Eden with so many wonderful fruits, vegetables, fish and incredible beauty.  Unfortunately, waste, corruption, mismanagement characterize the government for the most part.  As the people say "Dem politicians promise everting and dem do nutten!"  And one of my favorite proverbs: "di higher di moneky clime a di more im expose"....well, that is all for now,  "Lieta, mi touch di road"



Sunday, July 31, 2011

Getting Caught up

One of the many challenges I have faced here in Jamaica is the lack of any consistent internet access so I have not been able to post for several weeks now.  I will attempt to do a bit of catching up.
July 9, Doing Laundry in Jamaica

Doing laundry here at Mabel's in Hellshire, Jamaica is a very different experience than at home with my Whirlpool washer and dryer.  First of all, I am washing my clothes by hand using two plastic tubs, one for washing and one for rinsing.  Mabel is sitting nearby talking to a neighbor, Spunky, who is standing by the gate.  Mabel asks if I see a "pumpkin" and I say "no".  They both laugh because the "pumpkin" is referring to Spunky's advanced state of pregnancy.  The talk and laughter continue as I wash.  I sing some folksongs in Patwa that I recently learned which results in gales of laughter from Mabel and Spunky.  There is a lovely ocean breeze and I can see the turquoise sea from where I am washing clothes.  The whole process is very enjoyable and relaxing.  Even hanging the clothes on the line is a pleasant experience with the breezes and sunshine.  There is a Seventh Day Adventist Church across the street and as it is Saturday, they are meeting all day into the evening and beautiful familiar church hymns drift on the air.  After hanging the clothes, I feel lazy and decide to just sit in the sun for awhile and soak up the rays, the warmth, the music and the cooling breezes.  I hear the familiar hymn "Trust and Obey" and think about learning that song as a young child attending the little Baptist Church in Wyandotte, Oklahoma.  I pondered the time from then till now, some 55 years thinking "who could have guessed then where I would be now, age 63, singing to the strains of that cherished hymn.  Life is amazing, full of so many twists and turns and unforeseen experiences and blessings.  One must stay open, flexible and just "trust and obey".

July 11,  My First Jamaican Hair Cut

I decided that I just needed to be brave and get my hair cut here in Jamaica.  One of the Peace Corps trainees lives with a family where the host mother has a beauty shop in her home.  So, I am thinking, what the heck - how bad can it be?  Virna has her beauty shop on the porch of her home.  I told Virna to just trim it up a bit.  I was not able to see the result until she finished.  As she worked, I kept thinking "this is a lot of hair coming off especially since my style is already quite short."  Well, when she was done and turned me to look at the results, I saw Pema Chodron, the Buddhist nun looking back at me!  I basically had a shaved head.  Even though I was a bit taken aback, I thought, "Oh well, it will be cooler and no maintenance and besides, it will grow back."  Maybe Virna thought, "I don't know what to do with this white lady's hair, so I will just cut it all off!.  I secretly have always wanted to shave my head, true confession.

July 20,  Living With Ceclin

I am now living in Stony Hill with another host Mother, Cecelin, who is 60 years old and her son, Oliver, age 24.  Cecelin is thin and a hard worker.  She owns a coffee bean farm and a man works it for her.  She said the Japanese usually buy the coffee beans but because of their earthquake and tragedies, the bottom fell out of that market this past season and she did not make much money.  She does not overfeed me like Mable did and is helping me lose weight which is a very good thing, to become less "fluffy".  She is a lovely person and her life has been marked by great tragedy.  She had three children and a daughter died from encephalitis at age 15, her husband was robbed and murdered about 10 years ago and following that, her 25 year old son committed suicide.  Her remaining son works very hard at the airport and goes to school working on a degree in business.  I asked her how she had endured such tragedy and heartbreak and she replied " you have to mon, God knows best."
I have learned that many peoples lives in Jamaica have been touched by similar stories.  The women are amazingly stoic.  There is a Patwa saying "Teck kin teet kibba heart bun" which means "you smile to cover the pain in your heart" which I have certainly witnessed in these women.  Mabel also had experienced the tragedy of her only son being shot and killed in a robbery in New York a few years ago leaving behind two very young children.

July 25, "My First Blinkin Bus Ride"

Riding the bus in Jamaica is slightly less painful than a root canal but not much.  We Peace Corps Trainees all had to "shadow"  another volunteer this past Monday through Wednesday.  This meant traveling to the volunteers community, staying in their home and going to the work site with them.  I was fortunate in that I did not have to travel very far and was with another trainee "Judge Judy" - a real judge from Kentucky named Judy.  We had to travel to May Pen, a community about an hour from Kingston.  We left Stony Hill Monday at 6:00am and took a shuttle bus to the Kingston Country Bus Park.  We had packed our things together in one suitcase which was smart.  The scene at the bus park is always utter chaos with "ductors", men who direct people to the right buses (hopefully), vendors selling snacks, etc., and people begging.  The ductors are yelling, grabbing your arms, and in some instances, fighting over prospective passengers as it means more money for them the quicker they fill their buses and "touch di road."  Once on the bus, the misery begins.  What under normal circumstances should be a 24 passenger bus becomes 31 passengers, some managing bags and suitcases, backpacks, etc.  This means that you must "small yuh sef up" and try to cram 6 people in a row designed to comfortably seat 4, 5 at the most.  I ended up on the "jump seat" which is a small pull down seat in the middle of the aisle.  In an attempt to "small mi sef up" I had my left arm and shoulder behind me and one half of my butt on the seat next to me and the suitcase in my lap which was also overlapping on the persons on either side of me.  I was more intimate with the young man to my left than I would ever be with a "romantic interest" let alone a complete stranger.  I had a steel rod on the side of the jump seat pressing tortuously against my spine and my left hand, in an attempt to brace from totally flinging myself in the young man's lap to my left was, unbeknownst to me, gripping the man's knee in a seat behind me.  I thought it was part of the seat!  I guess people are so accustomed to this misery they just ignore the mingling body parts or take advantage and cop a feel!  Sitting in front of me was a man  that as soon as the bus started, so did he, preaching that is.  We had been told that is not uncommon to have preaching on the bus. So in full voice, never once faltering, and quoting many scriptures, the sermon continued for 45 minutes!  And let me tell you, I was ready to meet Jesus before this ordeal ended.  finally, the bus stopped, and the man to my left got off so that I could straighten up and contain my girth and suitcase toone small seat.  Judge Judy who was behind me had discreetly moved her purse under my left arm and removed my hand from the man's knee.  Praise hymns were now being played and I wanted to shout "Hallejuia and praise God" for being able to move my body.  I was sure that when the time came to get off the bus, I would need to be airlifted to a hospital due to permanent physical alterations of my body.  However, I am happy to report that I was able to depart the torture chamber on my own accord and live to see another day. Praise God!